yesterday i was doing pretty well at the booth, engaging visitors and practicing my mandarin (when applicable). it didn’t last though, because later in the afternoon i crashed HARD. sounds improbable, but this is exhausting work. by no means am i complaining, but smiling and talking to strangers for eight hours straight can do a number on you. right now there’s a persistent — but enthusiastic — guy showing photos of his jade collection to us (he said, “they don’t have to respect me, but respect my culture”). we’ve been getting a stream of dealers and collectors who want to display their mediocre goods in the museum. sigh. this is when our diplomacy skills get put to the test.

we’ve also met passionate connoisseurs who truly know their stuff. it’s inspiring and sweet, reminiscent of experts at comic conventions who can recite, say, the entire history of green lantern. one couple at our booth pointed out that our jade catalogue, a scholarly contribution to the field, had caused quite a stir in the community (don’t you love that there’s a community?), and questioned how we had came to some of the conclusions outlined in the book. they discussed things like “tool marks” and the resilience and adaptability of fakers, etc. good natured and fun. this spirited, convivial atmosphere is so energizing!

ANYWAY…

breakfast at harbour kitchen, the cha can ting located inside the convention and expo centre. the menu is expansive. this is congee with minced pork and preserved egg, shanghai style green onion bun, and milk tea. the meal exceeded my expectations. the congee had a nice meaty stock essence, and the bun was AWESOME (slightly toasted on top, then soft, airy, warm inside)

our board member brought us pineapple buns, lao po bing, egg tarts, and confections (peanut brittle, sesame bites, etc) from supposedly the best bakery in HK, in lyndhurt terrace. what a special treat! this was exactly what i had woken up that morning craving

this was a great sight to behold: people really digging our library of museum catalogues and pulling up a chair to get into them. many folks have wanted to buy them, but unfortunately we aren’t set up to do business

both our director and senior curator of chinese art gave brief lectures yesterday. here’s the former holding court with his audience after the talk

one side of the fair has some contemporary art. nothing earth shattering, but some eyecatching pieces:

i really liked this korean painting – thick and luminous, you had to see it in person

stephen chow!

artist li huayi has a semi-retrospective at the fair put on by the ink society (in celebration of his 60th). it’s right across from our booth. he is a beautiful man with warm eyes and a real artist’s flair. i’ll post a better picture of him later. the museum presented an exhibition of his haunting paintings about five years ago

generous treat #2 from our board member: assortment of cakes from the mandarin oriental

right now the man behind this fair is giving a talk on chinese antique furniture. looks like all the seats are full.
we’re situated in prime real estate, across from the ink society’s li huayi show and in front of the lecture room. is this considered “live blogging”? jay, our director, asked me to think carefully about our presence at the fair and share with him my thoughts — since i’m the one who’s stationed here the most. hopefully i can call on these posts when i return to work to refresh my memory.

it’s preview night of the hong kong international arts & antiques fair, and there’s a lull in the foot traffic to our booth. my colleagues are at a special dinner down the aisle in a makeshift VIP space. the evening has provided an abundance of people watching; i’ve spied a handful of colorful characters and impeccably stylish folks.

thus far on this insane and surreal trip, i’ve been flustered with my impotent mandarin, bought birkenstocks, had dangerously addictive HK style milk tea, witnessed the awesomeness of which wealthy good-hearted people are capable, and already contemplated a fantasy of living in hong kong. yesterday i had a rare free moment to explore, so i abused my poor foot and did just that.

this mammoth construction project is right next to the swanky long pool. it’s quite a sight, seeing it jut out along the poolside and cabana chairs, appearing from the top of palm trees

the view from #2731

hong kong’s MTR (mass transit system) is clean, efficient, and thoughtful, with excellent signage to guide you along. here’s a fun, random ad, and then an example of MTR’s positive, simple reminders to keep you in check

the infamous central-mid-level escalator. i LOVE it. you ascend hk’s treacherous topography while practically brushing up next to residents’ suspended laundry, peering into store windows, and getting a bird’s eye view of the bustling below. this structure has appeared in chungking express. if it does’t fill you with childlike wonderment the first dozen times you ride it, then you must be dead inside

took the escalator from central station to hollywood street, turned onto a busy alley and found fresh produce, seafood, and gnarly butcher stalls. wet markets make my heart sing

it was serendipity, because tucked away was THIS, a popular place known for its perfect milk tea (made with silk stockings). just earlier that morning i had read about this cafe and really wanted to try it, but didn’t think i’d get the chance. it falls into the cha chan ting restaurant category — hong kong coffee houses. the window was plastered in press clippings to proclaim notoriety. it was cramped and hoppin’ inside, so a tiny table had to be shared with others

glass of iced milk tea and a trademark dish: fried instant noodles with spicy meat and chicken wings, topped off with fried egg. not purdy, but tasty

see how happy i was sipping my delicious milk tea? great great great

back to wonderful hollywood street. it’s mostly an antique row with its share of stalls, boutiques, galleries, a handful of bistros, and trendy wine bars. the beautiful thing is that it’s also residential, lined with schools, a temple, and parks. if there was a decisive moment that made HK a favorite city, it happened while gallivanting this delightful stretch

creepy, pretty growth

stairwells are everywhere (and that’s the temple on the left). see the cute school kids scampering down the steps? probably saw five different school uniforms out there. lots of moms were picking up their wee ones at this hour

eyecatching decorative building

lomo store (bright red store front) smack dab in the middle of this mellow neighborhood. crazy!

belonging to the plethora of galleries

kids being kids + resident curmudgeon in the mix doing his calisthenics

backtracked into soho (bars, galleries, eats galore) and then into lan kwai fong, an extremely “happening” concentration of bars, clubs, restaurants. it’s the epicenter of nightlife, but more like a raucous hotbed of grossness and skeezy expats. regardless, was glad to visit just to see what it was all about, but more importantly, to see this!

yup, that’s my cuz simon. true to form, he’s staying indefinitely in HK to work on another cool project with two other likeminded bros. i’m prouda him. we met up in a subdued corner away from the madness

later in the evening, went across the water to tsim sha tsui in kowloon. the plan was to grab a bite, but hunger and exhaustion were deferred in the name of uniqlo and M U J I. my very first one, and it didn’t disappoint. fell head over heels with it, especially its black, buttery sheep leather wallet

keepin’ it real at a down n dirty food court. at this point we were almost flatlining

this morning, a fortuitous chance to get outside for breakfast. went to a festive, huge seafood banquet restaurant in an industrial, dated government building nearby. better-than-average dim sum (btw those are goose claws)

and i guess i shouldn’t sign off without showing why i’m so lucky to be in HK in the first place. getting the booth ready on our end was an intensely stressful experience. the wall graphic alone probably shaved a good two years off my life, but as you can see, our designer rocked it. despite the grinding tension leading up to this, it was worth it. i’ll be a permanent fixture at this spot for the next few days

someone snapped this pic of me frantically trying to reach a coworker on the phone – note my weird eyelids

this is commissioner sally. she RULES harder than 99% of humanity. a heart of gold who tirelessly champions for the things that matter

oh man, i’m wrapping this up in the hotel room and it is way too late for me to still be conscious. it’s been a VERY, VERY LONG DAY. maybe it’s jet lag?

ps – kelly chen’s wedding is all over the news right now. goodnight!

dear diary,

yesterday was kind of a bummer. i was feeling insecure, gross, anxious about an imminent departure, trying to keep my ballistic hormones in check, and coping with the soul-sucking monday blues. being out and about in the castro after work helped. i enjoyed the balmy weather, being amongst all the happy couples walking their exuberant dogs, savoring their bi-rite ice cream cones. it was nice. still, my soul was amiss, UNTIL…i got home last night, sifted through the mail, and found the ultimate spirit-lifter amidst the latest comcast and credit card solicitations.

i couldn’t believe it…
i received a lovely missive from one of my favorite artists of all time, TOM OF FINLAND!

he included a flattering photo of himself (one i’d never seen before) looking dapper and cocky (bearing an uncanny resemblance to middle age vince price). i may not be his flavor, but i’m still a huge, throbbing fan. talk about impeccable timing, arriving at my home the very evening i was in the castro. what a total sweetheart. must’ve been a hassle for him to do this, especially from the grave.

<3 <3 <3 <3 <3

THANK YOU, TOM! you’re the coolest finn of all time. thank you for being $ex-positive. you weren’t just a damn good fine arts craftsman, you were also the pinnacle of hawt get-your-rocks-off “erotic art.” sigh.

we were leisurely wandering noe valley when we stumbled upon this thing of awesomeness:

done with chalk, people. that’s not an easy feat! notice the detail in the face, the shadows and rendering, the smart use of color! reminds me a bit of thor or bearded aqua man. whoever did this has a quirky sense of humor (“oooooh! yeah! brotha!!!”). the bod is well executed too. note the appropriate 80s-era lettering. the only thing i can dock points for? no nipples.

this is probably the only classy thing to ever come out of 24 hour fitness. they need to clean up their act and put forth some quality. how do i know? i’m a member. i love their classes and rely on the facilities, but my god i don’t think i’ve ever paid a visit without shaking my head at how shoddy everything is.

boy, i’m a hypocrite. but anywho, i love that sign and had to share it.

it was huge when the news broke that james jean would be loaning his inimitable talent to luxury giant, prada. this was a very long time ago.

of course everyone was excited, including yours truly, a james jean fanatic (who intends on collecting every single print from his recess series – i only have two right now). i thought it was brilliant, and happy that he had elevated to such a level of art celebrity. i usually diss the whole luxury glamour lifestyle (i’m part disgusted and part jealous), but i can’t walk by a prada shop without peering into the window and salivating. it’s probably one of the few places i would drop stupid amounts of $$$ on if i was you know, rich.

i’m not sure how i feel about the end product, though really the man can do no wrong in my books. he’s supremely, sickeningly amazing. taiwanese AND young to boot. one of my all time favorite artists. EVER.

anyway, i spotted this prada satchel (?) at the salon. it was my first and only sighting of the prada + james jean collaborative effort. mixed feelings, really. but hell, like i said, it’s james jean. you can tell that the leather is buttery and sumptuous.

man i’ve definitely fallen off the blog-three-times-a-week wagon (unlike some people who’ve been on a blogging binge).

there’s so much to blather on about. june has flown by filled to the brim with birthday celebrations. i plan on doing an entry dedicated to all the lovely birthday folks of june. it’ll be a smorgasbord.

i feel like being random right now. that said, can you figure out what this is? is it black blow? sand? gritty gravel?

i use it to make this

it’s black sesame powder, pure and unadulterated. i bought it at yogi house in fremont, right next to the salon i go to. it’s this quaint chinese shop specializing in all things healthy, organic, natural, herbal, etc. it’s a bit of an anomaly, cuz well, it’s not very “chinese” in my mind. the great thing is that my mom had a field day there, asking the owner questions about this and that about all the products (“what is this good for?” “flax seeds? what does that do?” “lignans? what’s that?”). oh, and they sell japanese black charcoal (supposedly a natural water filter).

anyway, i bought a tub of black sesame powder. i’m a skeptic about healthy miracle ingredients, but supposedly it’s loaded with calcium and goodness. at work i mix it with hot soy milk and splenda to tide me over. tasty and earthy, it’s like a healthy oreo shake, or at least it looks like it.

the only drawback is that it makes my mouth look like i’ve been making out with black dirt. so whenever anyone comes into my area i have to cover my mouth while i talk to him/her.

onto more randomness, check this out:

hardcore! spotted on hayes. i wasn’t sure what to think, just cuz the car itself is one of my faves (late 80s bmw 318i) and if i had one i certainly wouldn’t turn it into the herge mobile. still, i applaud the tintin dedication.

saw scrabbel at the rickshaw on wednesday night. pretty awesome. they’re a solid band, terrific live, and it brings me great pleasure to see hellen shredding on the cello. it’s pretty sweet. also got to hang with the gang, which is always a good thing. everyone was so fun and bubbly save me. i’m a perpetually tired sack of old bones. sorry.

on the work front, our big summer show opens today. we’ve been hosting a group of delegates from china, and it’s been fun to observe from the sidelines. i walked through the exhibition a couple times, and i have to say it is spectactular. i’m proud to be part of it. the objects are stunning, and there’s so much history. for example, we have one of the world’s oldest gun powder utilizing barreled weapons. pretty nuts. when i am in the galleries, i often try to visualize what it was like back then during the ming dynasty. it plays like a movie in my mind. the eunuchs, the mandate to rule from heaven, the ladies of the court, the power, etc…all that drama.

here’s our signature marketing piece. you know what i love? it looks like he’s wearing chucks with black laces! so emo.

so yeah, i’m not just saying this to shill for the museum, but this is truly a historical exhibition. i imagine history buffs in particular would love it.

oh, and i tried indoor climbing last night for the first time at mission cliffs. it’s something i’ve been curious about for years, and was finally able to check it off my to-do list thanks to steve (who is a patient, good instructor). i was quite nervous and found the whole thing daunting. you walk in and it’s like, bam! hello climbing culture, stimulation overload. plus, there was a belaying test!!! talk about sweating bullets. but i miraculously passed it and got to climb. my first try was frightening and i didn’t get very far, but by my last try i had managed to get to the top and was hooked. of course, the walls i mounted were probably meant for little kids, but still, it was an addictive sensation. can’t wait to go back.

and lastly, here’s something i probably shouldn’t post for many reasons. yes, i know he wasn’t the best PM, yes, i know about the yasukuni controversy, and yes a million things, but i’m such a piggish carnal slimeball that i can’t help but lose all reasoning and ladylike behavior when i see a handsome specimen. there, i’m inhuman. can’t help it. you can blame ryan, it’s his beautiful poster.

ps – i think martin was desperate to fill their top five page in the latest ish of GR, because i can’t think of any other reason why i’d end up in it (i’m not complaining, i think it’s really neat). it features a terrible thumbnail of my sad mug, but in it i say that one of my top five is to have a drink with candy, the coolest bar maiden you’ll ever meet (at the bow bow cocktail lounge, chinatown). she’s taiwanese and a saucy spirit. will someone please do a documentary on her already?

i’ve been freaking out doing everything i can to make sure we get the word out about THIS. will feel much better when the kickoff event is over. til then, i’ll continue to be in pouty, haggar insular mode. it’s been a terrifically harrowing past couple of months!

so if y’all are free on thursday and have only $5 to spare, come on by for some acupuncture, qi gong, tea, shiatsu, live chinese music, cupping (heh), and a whole lot more. it’s a total steal.

anyway, i really dig this art by wu gaozhong. his show is called spectral memory, on view at the zendai MoMA in shanghai. it heaves a visceral impact on many levels; so repugnant, yet so…beckoning. of course, anyone who’s familiar with my neuroses will immediately know exactly why these objects creep the $*#! out of me.

i also gravitate toward this art because it looks like how i feel.

photos from this flickr account

SUNDAY! SUNDAY! SUNDAY!
FREE! FREE! FREE!

it’s a big deal in the museum world to have a monthly free day on the weekend, and the asian art museum is the first, and only one, in san francisco to do it. we’re celebrating this recent breakthrough by having a huge blowout bash.

say goodbye to target tuesdays and hello to target sundays. there will be chinese acrobatics, taiko, cambodian dance, polynesian and pilipino performances, art activities up the wazoo, and tons more, so come on down to the asian art museum this sunday, may 4. it’s all FREE.

it’s also your last chance to check out the sumptuous exhibition, drama and desire. and no, i’m not above telling you that there is some juicy shunga (erotica) in the show. oh, and another thing, this is a good way to commemorate APA heritage month, as well as show your support for the arts and culture community.

and yes, bullseye, the real, official target dog, will be making an appearance.

one day, i will master the art of blogging brevity. but until then, i don’t care if i’m 85 and on my goddang death bed sportin’ a colostomy bag. i WILL finish this bloody travelogue. oh yes…i will…(a la wayne).

****************

wake up later than desired; i bitchily rush christina so we can make it out the door. we’ve got a big day ahead of us!

breakfast. here’s sister looking fierce in cafe sabarsky, a polished viennese cafe that exudes old-world charm (glossy wood paneling, waiters in black vests). it belongs to the neu gallerie (german and austrian art). when we leave there’s a line of folks waiting to get into the klimt exhibition

impeccable apple strudel. tastes authentic, not that i know what an “authentic” apple strudel should be like, but probably akin to this. we also order a bowl of goulash, which isn’t anything like its hungarian counterpart. we savor it until chris realizes that the guys across the way are straight up laughing at us for sloppily slurping from the same bowl like wolves. we remain calm, reminding ourselves that we are the true civilized ones. it takes a lot of self-control to prevent christina from basically bitch slapping the dudes.

after that bitter experience, we walk down museum mile to the guggenheim for the critically acclaimed cai guo-qiang show. making it to this installation was a top priority on this trip

there’s a no-photo policy, but i can’t help myself. you wouldn’t believe how crowded it is. the staggering amount of people may ruin lesser shows, but because this one is so good, the jostling isn’t too terrible

so out of this world

aaaaaand they’re OFF!

but they smash into an invisible barrier that’s symbolic of the berlin wall

all life-sized wolves made out of paper mache, fake fur, and other materials

cai guo-qiang — a contemporary chinese artist who is known for his “explosive” art employing dynamite, fireworks, and gunpowder — really just “blows” my mind. this show is the apotheosis of a successful art exhibition. it’s engaging and dynamic, larger than life; a true spectacle on all accounts. but it’s not just dazzling eye candy: there’s a lot of depth and philosophy at work. it’s an experience that wraps up all your senses into a mindbending blankie. bravo to him, and the guggenheim, for presenting one of the most exciting visual arts experiences i’ve had in a long, long time

this makes me feel like a pedo

no NYC trip is complete w/o an excursion to the union square green market. we breeze on through, perhaps as a result of being spoiled bay area farmers market patrons

after buying some kicks on sale at shoe mania, we stumble upon max brenner, a big ol’ chocolate restaurant. it’s like…if willy wonka made a restaurant in the late 90s. there’s a strange, ambiguous fusion of fantasy gaudy (spray painted butterflies on chocolate pipes that criss cross the ceiling) and worldly style (bowls of different cocoa powder lining a ledge)

gross, but i’d be lying if i said i wasn’t somewhat intrigued and willing

i don’t think so

of course we get something! here’s christina with their fancy version of an oreo shake

liquid milk chocolate. literally, that’s what it tastes and feels like. i still think about this deathly concoction. i’ve yet to find something quite like this in the yay area

oh man, what luck! first we come across max brenner, and now, forbidden planet! a mecca for all nerds. it’s almost like coming come. i’m pretty stoked

this sneaky shot fails in doing the mammoth store any justice

more or less one of the coolest, funniest things ever

18 miles of books. easy to get lost here. the art section alone would require a good two hours. atypical of landmarks, this one actually has smart, stylish souvenirs / branded merch, like cute totes

one cup to rule them all. unfortunately, we are too bloated on thick industrial strength chocolate to try it

we powerwalk through greenwich, catch a glimpse of NYU, make a few stops, then end up in the east village for some vintage shop scouring. everything’s too expensive. i dig this boutique, but the prices remind me that it’s not meant to be. we break for a snack at this quaint little charmer, bruschetteria. not a bad concept. tasty too!

we crash at cynthia’s pad, admire the playboy covers wall that her roommates put up, and collectively nap. then, we head to dinner at the immensely popular lil’ frankies. being amongst the vibrant night lifers on the bustling streets, and seeing every single restaurant in the neighborhood packed, leads me to conclude that there really is a different lifestyle in NYC. people eat out. a lot. and they don’t get started til much later

sure, at this point we’ve eaten enough to energize a third world country, but why stop? stephen recommended chikalicious, a dessert bar, but alas, we are too late. disappointment is quelled with a consolation prize: we can enjoy its smaller, humbler sister, puddin, across the street, for some namesake sweets.

try a little tenderness

on the way back to the metro via st. mark’s place, we discover that this gnarly vintage shop, search & destroy, is still open. yes! i love late-night shopping. it’s run by some handsome japanese punks. i spy some great goods, including a special coat that doesn’t fit my frame. stupid big frame. i try to distract myself from the pain by trying on some awesome (but creepy) full-face beanies (hot and scratchy). there are a bunch of designs, including scuber diver and ninja face ones

one chinese netizen’s artistic take on sino-U.S. relations:

via sfist/shanghaiist

given the current all-eyes-on-china affairs, is this aggressive and nationalistic, subversive and inflammatory, or good ol’ fashioned fun? or all of the above? this piece is begging to be captioned. c’mon guys, it’s captioning time! i know you all can come up with some witty, naughty nuggets.

ps – notice how liberty’s nipple is grazing the warrior’s breast plate ever so gingerly. oooh la la!