One of my job’s perks is not only working with interesting people, but meeting “famous” ones too. For the samurai exhibition media preview, I obnoxiously sidled up to the former Prime Minister of Japan Morihiro Hosokawa for a photo (his family collection comprises the exhibition). I wasn’t planning on it but the opportunity was too ripe.

I can’t comment on his political career, though I know it was a gutsy, distinctive, and short-lived one. It’s impressive that he was the first Japanese leader to publicly acknowledge that World War II was a “war of aggression, a mistaken war.” After his PM stint, he escaped the madness for a quiet, rural, peaceful life with nature and art (pottery), and is now a celebrated ceramicist. Some of his pieces are in the samurai exhibition.

From what I know about Hosokawa, I really dig him. You know how sometimes, people just strike you as chill, peaceful, and loving life for all its beauty? They’re not encumbered with drama or baggage? He seems to be one of them. Since he hails from a line of incredible renaissance men (artistic, poetic, overachieving samurai), maybe it’s just in his blood. He emulates vibes of goodness. This morning, our director said that when he “retired,” he tossed out all his ties, which is why during all the samurai exhibition opening events, he wasn’t seen wearing a single one.

This is a quick piece that sums him up real well, written around his last visit to the museum. In it:

“There’s a phrase in classical Chinese and old Japanese, seikou udoku, which means when the sun is shining, till the fields, and when it is raining, engage in reading,” Hosokawa said through an interpreter. “I was attracted to this type of life from my youth.”

Also — he reminds me of my grandpa. Kinda looks like him and everything.

via flickr.com

For our Bhutan exhibition — which, btw, is chockful of stunning eyecandy — we have two visiting monks from Bhutan (super sweet fellows) who protect the sacred art by praying for it, twice daily. There’s also a colorful altar to which they contribute offerings (photo shown). All the art in the show is religious and still in active use in temples and monasteries. It took years working with the Bhutanese government to allow these precious artworks to go abroad. They’ve never left the country, let alone their homes. So yeah, it’s a big deal.

Here’s a snapshot of one of the offerings made by the monks. Traditionally made from flour and (yak) butter, these are created from sculpey.

I really really love the one on the right because it’s so Woodring! Am I right? It feels so familiar.

A word on Himalayan Buddhist art in general — not only is it beautiful, meticulous, and painstakingly detailed, it appeals to my morbid sensibilities because of the sometimes gory motifs: severed heads, human skins, flames of wrath, evisceration, etc — all for enlightenment purposes.

Try to see this show if you can. And if you do, take the time to check out the facial expressions on the sculptures. I love them.

i was flipping through the latest VIZ book catalog and one thing jumped off the pages: OISHINBO A La Carte. WOW! a manga about japanese food?! that’s a killer double whammy in one lovely, enticing serving.

according to the catalog, the series synopsis is about this slacker who is designated with the task of coming up with the ultimate menu to celebrate his workplace's (a newspaper) 100th anniversary. even though he's a lazy, blunt guy, he was chosen because he has an exquisitely discerning palate, an encyclopedic knowledge of food and drink, and a masterful touch in the kitchen.

i'm sold! from what i can glean, the artwork is easy on the eyes; clean but not terribly stylized. and depictions of food are extra handsome and draftsman-like. also, word on the street is that not only is it decent storytelling, it's educational as well.

it's apparently regarded as THE food manga, the first volume sold over 1 million copies in japan (in general it was a perennial bestseller), and became a "virtual institution" that spun off anime, movie(s), and fan websites. let's hope VIZ's retooling and repackaging of this supposed gem is worthy.

here's a review that breaks it down in a digestible manner, and the comic reporter's take on it.

as a diehard kuishinbo, i absolutely can't wait to get my hands on a copy.

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an indie based t-shirt company in beijing just couldn't resist the recent zhang ziyi $ex(y) "scandal" as fodder for its topical design content. i can't help but love the juiciness either. the chinese character stands for privacy. not sure if i care for this concept and typeface, but i dig the graphic on the back.

i think i'm the only person who actually finds the photos titillating and fun, but apparently zhang ziyi has shamed her country with such "indecent" behavior in public (even though they were on her wealthy fiancee's private beach). i've always been a poo-pooer of zhang ziyi. it's her conventional if not boring face and her seeming lack of personality. i just felt like, if there was gonna be an "it" girl representing china, she falls short of the job. she certainly is no gong li, that's for sure. the only time she did anything for me was in 2046. OH, worst of all, she has publicly stated that she prefers western men. now that's just not cool, girl ! regardless, i have some empathy for her in this case.

gotta credit ryan with sharing the pix with me before it really blew up.

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he’s an uneducated chinese farmer who accidentally burnt down his home and plunged his family into debt. but damnit he creates robots from scratch!

check out how creepy his robot is. do you like the moving eyes, flapping ears, and freaky weird rectum/cephalopod-esque mouth? i love that he’s wearing a hat and got the sweat rag draped around his shoulders. lastly, the wife is spicy, what with her sassy twilly action.

god i love china.

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hey folks, ryan put up a community blog for his electric ant zine on posterous. it’s a slick gathering place for the zine contributors and extended family. check it out! there’s already a bunch of cool vids, neat art, eye candy, and random smatterings of cultural craziness. i’ve been making vapid contributions there, and from now on those entries will also automatically show up here as well.

this is one of them.

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every so often i go through these fits of anxiety and wanderlust brought on by the relentless travel bug. i fantasize about winning the lottery so i can buy little homes throughout the world, starting with a crash pad in shanghai. everyone knows contemporary chinese art is so "hot" right now (a la mugatu) and has been for awhile. there's a great little arts district / zone in shanghai, abutting the river, called moganshan 50. it's basically a complex of galleries and studios. i was gleeful and blissed out just wandering around there. it’s one place to go check out a facet of the crazy arts scene, but those in the know will probably tell you there are far better places to get your fix. one of my big dreams is to work in the contemporary arts in china or taiwan. that would be the coolest thing.

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back with more on the taipei “street food” experience.

ps – speaking of food, and more specifically, vile and disgusting gluttony, this past wknd i consumed mint tuxedos (oreos), pinwheels, lucky charms, candy, brasilian bbq, mexican food, more tonnage of beef in shabu shabu, and potato chips. that’s just the stuff my deep fried corn syrup-doused brain can recall! i’m going to die either of heart failure or shame very soon…

this here is the entrance to a big food court next to taipei’s most popular night market (shilin ye shi). as i approached it, i heard a heavenly choir singing to me. if it wasn’t for peg and her dad (who graciously drove us around), my sis and i would have gone the rest of our trip not knowing about this place. can you imagine the travesty?

inside: dizzying mayhem. lots of strident giddy squeals from yours truly!

freshening up with juices. peg’s dad is sipping honey bittermelon (interesting!), peg has watermelon juice (keeps the fire “qi” down), and i’m reuniting with a drink i used to love the last time i was in taiwan (seven years ago): “jin ju,” literally golden orange. tiny citrus fruits that resemble calamansi.

typical beverage stand. thirsty?

this name literally translates into “big bun wrapping small bun.” cute. looked good and greasy

if taiwan had a street food hall of fame, this would definitely be in it.
we grew up eating aiyu jelly out of the can. i just now found out from the wiki that it’s made from the seeds of an asian fig. makes sense, since aiyu is somewhat sweet, a teeny bit tangy, but mostly light on the senses.

avocados way bigger than your noggin, for making creamy shakes

okay, so, these sausages were mammoth, larger than your mind is willing to comprehend. scary. they gave me the shivers.

i took a photo of this hardworking hottie for my sister

peg pointed out this clever product. it looks like sausage but it’s actually flavorful rice made in a sausage mold, probably.

another taiwan classic: bao bing, or shaved ice. also grew up eating this; even had a store-bought ice shaver to make our own. my favorite toppings are stewed sweet peanuts, tons of mochi/rice balls, and green beans.

there was a daunting, endless line of people waiting to buy these HUGE fried chicken cutlets. they looked delicious and juicy, with a crunchy exterior. the last step before handing it over to the customer is a dash of seasoning

so this is the infamous shilin night market mentioned in the beginning. the largest and most bustling of them all. if you want to get a vague idea of how lively and lovely night life can get in taipei, this might give you an idea. it’s the ultimate destination since it delivers on two of my favorite things: cheap shopping and good (cheap) eating. you’d be amazed at the variety of wares you can purchase here and for dirt cheap. hawkers were peddling attractive, thick hoodies for literally $3 USD.

you’ll see a nice cross-section of people at shilin night market, including youth from all walks of life. these guys were totally up my sister’s alley so we stopped to take a photo. the process was amusing as they were confused but obliging and friendly.

pink guava. they sprinkle some sort of salty/tangy/sweet seasoning on them to enhance and complement the natural flavors.

balls, balls, balls. taiwan knows how to do mochi / rice balls right.

to be continued…and i’ll try to improve upon my tense consistency next time.

street food is an integral part of taiwan’s identity. in any given conversation about this charming country, the topic of culinary culture will inevitably surface. there are many, many things to love about taiwan, but you can bet that its gustatory goodies rank in the top five.

one of my dream careers is to be one of those food show hosts who travel around consuming regional specialties. ever see those japanese programs, where the demure, cute gals go to the country side and soak in hot springs and treat themselves to resort cuisine? and they make those ridiculous faces of pleasure, giggling and covering their mouths when they take their first bites? damn them. well i want their jobs! i could easily be stationed in taiwan and never run out of content.

my first stall after i arrive in TW, this one specializes in a huge variety of mantou, chinese steamed buns. yummers. soft, fluffy, and slightly sweet.

mantou and milk tea

okay, so technically 7-11 doesn’t constitute street foot, but they’re everywhere in TW and infinitely better than our sad versions here in the states. when hungry and/or short on time and money, get thee to 7-11 because rest assured, you will find all sorts of vittles. for instance – tea eggs (one of my favorite snacks), meat and veggie buns, lu wei skewers, a million different beverages, etc

this is an infamous chain called yong he. they’re reputed to be the best purveyor of fresh shao bing (doughy small flat bread) you tiao (fried crueller sticks) and soy milk in TW. throughout the trip my mom kept on saying that the first thing she wanted to eat was specifically shao bing you tiao from this chain. they hand you the soy milk in plastic bags. it’s easy to become hypnotized while watching them make everything from scratch

soooooo GOOD

peg with her winnins

the crunchy soft combo is heaven in christina’s mouth

the portable street food carts come out at night in ximending, a popular happenin’ gathering area for people of all ages (especially youth). i suspect that you can’t find these food vendors during the day because they need licenses. but once it gets dark, they all come out of the woodwork, wheeling out their delectable handmade goodies for the masses! delicious, and CHEAP! i’m always amazed by how economical and efficient their set-ups are. enterprising and smart.

red bean pastries

this guy was super skilled at cranking out wonderful doughy, crunchy green onion pancakes

corn, a classic

duh

swift hands adept at creating perfect little mochi balls dusted in peanut flour. oh, and i gotta say it: taiwanese mochi is the best

beverage culture reigns in TW. srsly. people love to sip away at all hours of the day. it’s contagious! coffee/tea and juice stands can be found everywhere. there’s probably one on every block. here peg refills on refreshing watermelon juice, and i sweet salty plum juice

this barely even scratches the surface. i’ll be posting more later.

when i look at these, i am reminded of why i am a neurotic and obsessive when it comes to taking pictures. every moment counts.

girlfriends
(perhaps one of the sweetest things i’ve ever seen)

after 32 years away, mom reunites with the girlfriends. everyone’s grown up. can you match up the faces? that’s the fun part

they used to walk this bridge together to and from school

(they’re making an “aww” face during my mom’s touching “speech” at dinner)

they all lived more or less within earshot, with their bedroom windows facing each other in this little alley. this helped facilitate planning, smooth getaways, and gossip

sometimes it’s like they never grew up, what with the girltalk and giggling and jewelry swapping

on the way to the night market, which they frequently did together in their youth. immediately cue “ladies’ night” to the rhythm of their assertive stepping

mom and her godbrother, “a-gu”, back in the day. he took good care of her

here they are together again

the modern day photos were all snapped in taiwan on MOM’S REUNION TOUR FTW 2008.

meeting all these crucial figures from mom’s childhood was like one drawn out, poignant ya ya sisterhood trip except awesome and amazing and without sandra bullock. being around mom and her childhood friends seriously blew my mind and heart apart. they were genuinely cool gals; feisty, plucky, and fun. we all seemed to get each other, which is kind of a surprising thing, considering the generational and cultural AND language gaps. every moment together welled up with emotion. also, their lives have been marred with tragedies, yet they manage to have such an upbeat disposition and attitude about life. everyone treated us sooooo well in such touching, quirky ways. it was cute how they would non-too-subtlely try to buy us gifts.

“a-gu” (mom’s godbro) took us to this great jade market and kept on peering over my shoulder as i would pick up things and look at them. he’d try to ascertain my taste, and even asked funny questions like “so do you like big jewelry? or little delicate things? do you like jade”? haha. nice try. i basically said “don’t you dare!” though i totally fell in love with this and wanted it real badly. i envisioned myself in an amy tan moment, wearing it on my neck on a red string. i should’ve bought it.

here’s mei qi wondering what the heck is wrong with me as i stuff succulent handmade mochi in my maw. the whole time at the night market whenever i stopped to check something out she’d be like, “do you like it? do you want it?”

since my return, i’ve been thinking about how to give lip (text?) service to my incredible travels in taiwan without resorting to my usual laborious and long-winded approach of breaking things down day by day. it’s just boring for all parties involved.

so maybe an okay strategy is to craft a lazy travelogue based on themes…

that said, here are photos of fun, big things. i know, what a specific, categorical assignment, huh?

definitely a highlight of the trip is popping my mister donut cherry. peg has enthusiastically championed this japanese chain since her japan trip a few years ago. there are a whole bunch in taiwan, and i wonder when it’ll land in the states. think krispy kreme but with a strong, stylish, clever brand and donuts that are a million times better and perfect (i apologize for the obvious analogy)

here i am with wasabi. it’s quite fitting. can you imagine if it was real?! we were in alishan national forest, in a region known for its wasabi and tea, amongst other natural resource goodies. it was a magical place, almost like something out of spirited away

this is the national museum of marine biology and aquarium. i really loved it. well done, classy, organized, with at least one cool restaurant. this is where i saw the whale shark (YES YES YES) and beluga. here’s a cool fountain that kids could play in. the huge whales reminded me a bit of pinocchio

the kiddie playground had these awesome sculptures of some of my fave animals, so of course i forced my sister to snap away!

you’ll probably never see me revealing this much ghostly pallored skin ever in person, but i’m a sloppy lazy tourist when it comes to dressing like i care (comfort comes first and taiwan is humid!)

at taroko gorge (home of endless marble and granite), large bronze sculptures of mecha-like insects? yes! i must…

(the more i look at these pix the more i realize how mortified i am with my bad travel outfits. oh well)

this is somewhere on the way to taitung. all along the road were stalls and shops selling this one fruit — the sugar apple — apparently a point of pride and specialty in the area. we stopped at one place, and it was cute how everyone was marveling at the bushels of sugar apples. if you’re wondering, it tastes like all the great things about great fruits, with a creamy texture. very good. if you’ve had cherimoya/custard apples (which are available here), they’re similar

did you know skeletor has a timeshare in taiwan? who knew?! this was in a beach resort-ish area, facing the ocean

that’s it for now. thanks for reading!